Farewell South America.....for Now

What a close to an adventure. The feeling that I had getting on the plane in Buenos Aires was bittersweet. I'm sure it was time for me to go home, but I felt as if I was leaving something very familiar and going to something quite foreign. For months I had been living out of a backpack and moving from place to place seeing new things everyday. Every element of my travels varied. From weather to people to setting to language, it was all sort of new and exciting. I think Jon may have been worried that I would not get on the plane with him to go home. Now I'm back in Texas trying to sort out all of the admin duties (like paying off traffic tickets from April). I would much rather be sitting on a Bolivian bus stuck at a blockade at 3 AM, no heat, and a large woman sleeping with all of her belongings in the aisle next to me.

Early on in the trip, I decided to extend my travels to include places in Asia which I have and have not seen already. Jane was right. One year off can easily turn into one and a half. I hope that the next leg of my travels brings me as much enjoyment and learning as this last one. Patagonia still beckons and you can bet that I will be back boots-n-all.

Bariloche.

The drive into Bariloche was so nice. We did the overnighter, so we missed the barren landscape in the evening. After changing buses in Neuquen, the scenery started to get better. By mid-morning, we started seeing mesas, trees, and crystal blue lakes. Once we reached Lago Nahuel Huapi, you could see the city.

Bariloche is quite small and before we knew it, we were checked into the hostel. Hostel Pudu was recommended by a few people I met back in Argentina. It was a nice little place run by an Irish couple (Emma and John). The best thing about the hostel was the bar downstairs which had three different kinds of home brew (HH from 6-8 PM).

We quickly made friends with an English guy (who works as a guide in Verbier) and another American. Both Jim and Tarn had been to Cerro Catedral that day, so they were sort of familiar with the mountain. The report they gave me was as I expected from talking to another American a couple weeks ago. THE SNOW IS CRAP (but better than last week where it was crappier)! Well Jon and I didn't take two overnight buses just to sit in a hostel and drink beer. The next day, we shared a cab with Old English (Jim's new name) and Big Drop Heath (Tarn's new name). Confirmed! Crap conditions! Although recent snowfall allowed people to actually ski to the bottom, the snow was heavy and not nice. My rental gear was also shit! The second day was even worse with rain towards the end of the day.

I woke up on the third day to see John at the computer. "120 KM/hr gusts at the top! There is only one lift running." There is only one thing to do now and that's shop, drink, eat, and repeat. We found some great restaurants in Bariloche. Jon was continuing his quest to eat every possible cut of beef on the menu. He went back to the bife de lomo, but it was no match for the 800 gram ribeye he would order the next evening. Tomorrow would be our last day on the mountain, so we were going up regardless of the conditions.

We were delighted to see that the storm that brought the screaming winds also brought a massive amount of snow. The report said 55 km/hr winds at the top, so it was a bit calmer than the day before. The website said that 50 cm had dropped over the last two days. I'm not sure how accurate that report was, but based on our estimate a solid 30 cm was fresh. One major disappointment was how poorly the mountain was managed. The two best people movers (Nubes chair and the big gondola) were not running all week. All of the other lifts were slow to open. There is no such thing as a high speed quad in Catedral. It is all slow and the queues are looooong. By 12 pm the four of us completed one long run from top to bottom. The powder was sweet, but it would take a local to show us where the goods really were.

Sophie is married to an Argentinian and spends half of the year in Bariloche and the other half in Verbier. She is a good friend with Old English and lucky for us, she knew how to get to some steep open powder fields with a little bit of a hike. I had the best two powder runs this season my friends! The second run was highlighted with a 3-4 meter launch off of a fallen tree. That was it for me. My legs were shot, but it was worth it.

Pictures are from the mountain.
I also have one of the 800 gr ribeye.

Patagonia in Winter

Jon is getting aquainted with overnight busses now. We left BA in a rush getting in our last bottle of wine before leaving. We have been on a gastronomic blow out since his arrival. With BA in the rear view mirror the excitement started to build. It would be the first time for me in Patagonia and I was hoping to see something spectacular every day. Morning came and we both looked out the window to see absolutely nothing other than flat land and sparse bushes. I kind of knew that it would be like that, but not the entire way! It was a relief when we entered the bus terminal in Puerto Madryn. The wind was absoluely whippin´! We quicky walked to the hostel and booked the whale watching tour to Peninsula Valdez.

Everyone piled into the van and we set of to Puerto Pyramides. The first stop was a beach about 20K up the coast where we were able to see mother whales with their calves. They were so close (about 20 meters away)! The rest of the trip ended being a dud since the wind had not dies and the seas were really rough. However, you could see whales everywhere along the coast! Although we didn´t ride on the zodiac out to the bay, the tour exceeded my expectations. Once back, it was on the bus to Bariloche. The weather report was promising and I could feel the fire inside me starting to burn hotter. Freshies...Here I come.

Jon and I had the most expensive dinner do date in Argentina. It was well over 2X what Jane and I payed for our final meal together in Lima! My backpackers buget is beat up and bloody!

Shock Treatment

Jon´s flight arrived a bit late in Buenos Aires, but he arrived to the hostel without any problems. I Jon carried all of the gear I had requested from home, even the items I said were optional. After dumping a couple items in Lima, my backpack was just under 20 kilos, so I didn´t really want him to bring down too much. Looks like I'll need to get rid of more crap before going home. With Jon in tow, we walked around the city checking out the different neighborhoods. We covered the city tour much faster than I expected. It was just like my first day in BA where Jane and I seemed to walk for hours on end.

Buenos Aires Spanish is much different than that of Peru and Bolivia. I have been getting adjusted to GOOD South American Spanish over the past two months only to come back to BA and not understand anything people are saying. The pronounciation is a bit different and I'm working through the shock of learning the sounds again. Still practicing every chance I get.

I took Jon to El Trapiche for his first Bife de Lomo. We arrived at 11:00 PM and the place was packed! The locals tend to have a different timeline that what we are used to in the US. Times for all the meals are shifted by a few hours later. This would be the first of many dinners where I would suff my belly full of red meat. After eating light fare such as ceviche and sushi, the body is not taking to the red meat assult too kindly. The lomo was just how I remembered it from the first time. The entire meal plus drinks cost us about $23 per person. GREAT VALUE!

We decided to cut our time in BA short. Looking over the schedule, we decided to take a detour to Puerto Madryn for some whale watching. This will be good since I will not be back during the whale watching season in Feb.