Routeburn Track

As with everything else here in New Zealand, the hiking trails for the great walks are so well maintained that it doesn't even feel that you are out in the wild. The trails are groomed with fresh gravel where possible. Bridges are rock solid. The toilets are built in such a way that if the waste tank is full, it can be replaced with an empty one and the the full tank air lifted out by helicopter. The huts along the great walks have multiple stoves with gas, so no need to pack in extra stuff. You can definitely see where the money for the hut fees go.

I took the late bus out to the start of the trail and was accompanied by an American couple from Brooklyn and an Aussie. The weather forecast was for sun the first two days, then turning into rain for the next two. Steve (the Aussie) and I took of for the first hut at a relatively good pace. We decided to try climbing Conical Hill if time permitted. Since Patagonia, I've noticed that my pack carrying endurance has improved dramatically (thanks to HP). We arrived at Routeburn Falls hut at 5PM which was much faster than the estimated time. The clouds started to move in so we loaded a day pack and headed out for the pass. We had about 3 hours of daylight remaining, so I started a mix of running and walking to the approach. For this trip I decided to wear running shoes and packed my boots just in case. The shoes really allowed me to spring up the ascent to the climb. Unfortunately, the pace was too much for Steve and I ended up waiting at the emergency hut for him. From the hut we could see that the clouds had covered the peak. No views this evening.

When we returned, there were a group of people who were already in bed by 8:00! Why? It turns out that these same people woke up at 6 AM. Not to start hiking, but to eat their three course breakfast. And they had no regard for the people still trying to sleep at that time in the morning (fuckers!). Anyways, Steve and I made another attempt at Conical Hill the next morning. This time, the views into the adjacent valley were spectacular. There were low lying clouds swimming past snow covered peaks giving the views a mystical feel. From there, the trail hugged the side of the mountains up and over a pass, then down into Mackenzie Lake hut. The descent down to the hut was through the beech tree woods. Everything was so green and lush that you could tell this place received lots of rain every year. All of the trees were covered with moss as if they all wore wooly green jumpers. The sun was beaming down into the valley when we all arrived. Steve and I met up with the American couple and two German sisters on the way down to the hut. We all hung out by the lake stretching out our tired legs. The Germans actually jumped in the lake which was friggin freezing! Everyone started to get to know each other as the trek progressed. It was great fun meeting new people along the way.

As predicted, I woke up to rain the third day. By NZ standards, when they predict clouds, you have drizzle. When they predict drizzle, it is what we call rain. When they predict rain, it is like walking through a friggin' shower. Unlike Patagonia, when the weather changes, it normally sticks around for a while. I was well equipped for the rain this time (more than at Fitz Roy at least). It was only two hours to the last hut. With the clouds and the rain killing the views, I just put my head down and walked. It is amazing how many water falls appear when it rains. At times, it looks like there is one every 20 meters. The last stop was Howden Lake hut where we dried our things and gorged on the remaining food. Some people packed so much food that there was literally a buffet line in the evening.

Overall, the walk was good. I wish that I had time to do another one in another part of the South Island (maybe next time). I would wake up the next morning at 6 AM and walk to the divide in the dark to catch the bus for my sea kayaking trip in Milford Sound.

Final conclusion for the shoes on the trail. Running shoes are kind of soft, but trail running shoes may be a good option. Need to look for some approach shoes when I get home.